Monday, April 16, 2012

Smilyan, Bulgaria


What a buggar of a trip!   33 hours of travel including, driving 2 hours, ferry trip 1.45hrs, and the rest on four different buses with short stopovers in between, 30 minute stop at the border crossing for the guy to figure out what page of our passport to put his stamp on!  oh and then a taxi to the house.  We did not intend to do the trip like this, however we got on a bit of a roll with connections so just went with it.  We were shattered the next day and gave each other a bit of much needed breathing space.

Peloponesse northern coastline near Korinth

Rocky peaks everywhere

The Korinth Canal

Athens port

Central Bulgaria

Pompovoro ski village near Smolyan in southern Bulgaria

I am sitting here at the breakfast table looking out the window to an awakening Bulgarian village.  Smoke puffing from chimneys, people rushing about getting wood to take inside, elderly gentleman coming outside to have a stretch in the sun, birds desperately finding twigs to add to their nests.  It’s the start to another busy village day.

Smilyan is a small village of around 2500 residents in southern Bulgaria.  Very old people, little babies, and there seems to be many children around 8 to 14 years.   There is a school in the village that goes up to year 7 and then the children need to travel into Smolyan about 25mins away.  It is quite a spread out village in a narrow valley surrounded by hills with pine trees.  They had 2.5m of snow early this winter – it must have been freezing!  But with saying that the village seems to get the sun as soon as it gets up to very late in the afternoon.  There is a lot to be said about the SUN.  It seems to change everyone’s mood, including my own.  When we arrived here, it was freezing cold, very bleak and misty and we had a couple of days of rain.  Let’s just say it wasn’t much fun and was a bit boring after the collection of dvd’s had run out.  But as soon as it stopped people were out in their gardens preparing with the horse and plough, planting out and gathering in the streets for a chat with their neighbours.  People are very friendly, nobody speaks English – or at least very few, but all smile and say zdra-vey-te (hello) and are eager to carry on but know that they can’t.  We have learnt quickly that the Bulgarians have an unusual visual for yes and no.  To say yes they shake their head from side to side and to say no they nod!  Yep it confusing alright, and they know it.  We have found one boy in the village who must be around 15 who speaks reasonably good English; he is the son of a local veggie market owner.  He has been very helpful with the bus timetable.   His parents have a very nice local veggie shop.  There are about 7 or so mini markets in the village, all competing against each other, we do not know how they survive as everything is so cheap and there are not many people here.  Also the meals at the tavern are exceptionally cheap.  Two gins costs 1.80lv which is around $3.  Meals range from 2lv to 8lv.  We have had some delicious new foods, delicious big beans, a grated potato dish and bread crumbed tongue just to mention a few.  A common mode of transport for the villages is horse and cart of which there are many.


Sharing a "beera" Bulgarian style at 10am with neighbor - the local border police man Ruman
no english was spoken  communication only through the phrase book
Went for a walk around the village and saw the local sights and Murray found a place to buy and renovate – NOT!  Also caught up with some local people that look after the house we are staying in.  They are really nice,  Slavdah does not speak a word of English, but is delightful and always smiling and Stillion did, so he was busy translating all night and ordering Rakea or Grape Brandy. OMG let’s just say it was powerful stuff and we suffered the next day.  We enjoyed a great night with our new Bulgarian friends with some delicious local foods.   Stillion was working away from the village and was not due back until Saturday so we were invited to his house when he got back for drinks, bread and sausage, we had been planning to leave Smilyan on Saturday though.


Family's mode of transport


Logging machine made in Romania - upgrade from the donkey
Another neighbor - Tiny, 90 year old lady sitting in the sun keeping warm.
She waved out to us every morning as we past.
















Starting our hike
We headed off on a ‘beer hunt” one morning, as there wild bears in Bulgaria.  However never saw so much as a paw print.  We climbed a medium size hill and looked down on the village below.  It took around an hour I suppose and it was nice to be out in the bush again.   Not sure what was going on with their pine trees but many of them had been attacked and big hunks chiselled away from them, it was quite odd, of course we couldn’t ask anyone because nobody speaks English so it will be a mystery to us forever.  There were wild polyanthus growing everywhere, they were really pretty.   From up on the hill we tried a couple of spots for the internet as it was difficult to get any down in the village and too our amazement we found some.  So here we are sitting in the wilderness typing away on our laptop - desperate or what?  Managed to even skype and Jade was on but it wasn’t that good.




















Murray tries for internet connection


Laxing out - enjoying delicious oranges

The village of Smilyan 




The decision was made to start to move on to Greece on Saturday as planned.  So we went around to tell Slavdah when we were leaving.  After a quick phone call to Stillion,  we were ushered in and before we knew it we had an abundance of food, grape juice, coffee  Obviously she had already been preparing for our proposed visit on Saturday upon Stillions return.  We felt terrible, that our visit was going to be such a big deal.  We were enjoying the ‘new to us’ treats and then the gifts began – very unexpected, and embarrassing.  A beautiful pair of felt slippers that Slavdahs mother had made, two plates, a bottle of Rakea and a silk scarf luckily I thought quick enough and took the one I was wearing off and gave to her.  That made us feel a little better, but still a bit stink – all this from a non English speaking lady whom we had only met twice before.  Another two phone calls were made to Stillion and an unsuccessful skype session, before we finally left. 



5am – the alarm goes off and the groans start from the person in bed next to me.  Yep, it’s time to get up.  We have only about a 10 minute walk to the bus which is coming at 6am but we got to make beds have breakfast and do last minute tidying up stuff.  We have to meet this one, so that it links with the next to Sofia and then the next to Thessaloniki in Greece.  We got it no problems there were only four of us on it – there is after all only a certain few idots that catch buses by choice at 6am.  The trip was uneventful except for the many potholes on the road, the roads are really bad.



Monday, April 9, 2012

Kefalonia, Greece


Kefalonia Island
This island is on the western side of Greece in the Ionian Island group and is beautiful.  Stunning scenery; with contrasts from sandy or pebbly beaches to steep rocky cliffs.  Lots of trees growing on the hills, they were firs and some kind of cypress I think.   Bit of a sleepy tourist island with all the locals just preparing for the summer rush and in a couple of weeks the Easter rush, all the people are hoping for busy times, but most were optimistically cautious and seemed to think the economy might keep some people away.  Having said that, this island is not as touristic as some of the others on the eastern side of Greece.  Apparently there was a huge earthquake in the 1950’s which destroyed almost every village, so they have been rebuilding it slowly.     


Murray and Heidi at the Kyprissia castle lookout

Looking north

Leaving Kylini

We arrived late one night and got off the ferry and booked into a hotel at the port town of Porus. We walked around Porus a bit, there wasn’t much open and then we hired a car for a couple of days and headed off north east to explore.  The first village we came to was Sami, another port village but a bit bigger than Porus, next stop was Agia Limia then right on up to Fiskardo which was a beautiful bay with pastel coloured houses sort of more Italian style than Greek.   Just out of Sami (somewhere we stopped at a beach and we saw these eucalyptus trees with heads of big fish on them, it was really cool. 

Sights along the way

A flash big house being built

Kefalonian road-hogs!

Sami

Fish head attached to a eucalypti tree

Coming into another neat bay


Winteer storage - just pop it on the footpath!
 There were parts all the way that reminded us of Samoa kind of a mixture of old and new.  Many times we shared the road with wild goats – they looked a bit like British Alpines or Anglio Nubians but who knows.  Lots of olive trees of course after all we are in Greece and lots of other crops too.  On the high peaks there were lots of wind turbines, which I will tell you about later.  There were some real shacks and some real flash places and then the ’tourist’ villages were lined with cafe’s, bars and places to stay.  The people were very friendly and waved out and offered to help – not that us kiwis needed any help we had a map and Murray was in his element behind the wheel of a 1.3 car haha – good times.  After Fiskardo in the far north we headed south to an awesome spot called Assos.  We were winding around the steep hill and looked way down to what appeared to be an island and the water had that aqua blue look about it.  We could see the road weaving its way down the hill so we decided we had better check it out.  Man it was beautiful!  It wasn’t an island it was attached by a wee finger of land.  The island like part had ruins of a castle and a couple of caves.  There were taverns and places to stay everywhere – really pretty. We brought a drink and sat on the beach to take in the view and talked to some locals who were enjoying the sunshine as well.


Some dodgy looking sheep

Our first view of Assos

Assos

The windy road to Assos


Assos beach/village - beachfront properties for sale here at 2.1m euros
Our next stop was Myrtos Beach – this is the one regularly seen on postcards, by chance again I happened to be looking over the edge of one of these roads and said OMG stop the car you have got to see this.  We pulled over and got out and there it was right down the bottom this amazing beach!

Myrtos Beach

Sharing the road with other traffic

On the beach
 Another windy road weaved its way down the gully whilst we negotiated sharing the road with some rather arrogant goats.  The beach was absolutely deserted not a person or goat in sight.  Must admit by the time we got down there, the colours didn’t look anywhere near as vibrant, but the sun had disappeared a bit and it was getting a bit late.  I can only imagine how it would be in summer and the road would be terrible.  After here the road left the coast and headed inland – closer to those bloody wind turbines – how convenient!  Yes we just had to go and have a closer look, because unlike NZ  they were not fenced off and there seemed to be no ‘no entry’ signs anywhere so temptation was too much for Murray and we headed up the hill in our little white car.  I swear to god we nearly got blown off the hill, little car and all, they were massive turbines, Murray was really impressed and quite chuffed that he got to stand directly under one.  I on the other hand was cautiously watching the rumbling black clouds and rain that were coming our way and were happy to be heading down shortly after that.
Murray under his wind turbines - we must of counted about 40 - 45 of these beasts



We made it into Argostoli – the capital and found a hotel right on the port edge.  A very pretty spot with a lot more shops, cafes open than anywhere else.  The  walkway by the sea was cobbled with fancy curly patterns worked into the cobbles – reminded me of home a bit the pattern was like a punga tree fond and there were huge palm trees all the way along.  We found a nice Greek restaurant and had a nice dinner.  We had a few options what and where to go the next day and decided we would wait and see what the weather was going to do.  It was blowing a gale and we had had a few showers of rain too, but it was really warm. 
Agrostoli in the rain

The next day we headed off to find out about ferry, flights, bus, trains, and try and make some plans.  We were enjoying the island way of life so weren’t really in any great hurry.  We walked the shops and I got a haircut – at last not to bad a job too for 20 euros.  We decided we would head off for a drive, and decided not to go over to Lixouri (a short ferry trip across the bay) sounds like it was similar to this side.  So we headed to the airport to check out flights and came across a nice place called Ammes. 
Ammes beach

Lourdas beach

The coastline

Village road windy its way along the coastline

  Wow a neat little do nothing place right on the beach – hmmm so we went in and found out we could stay there for two nights for only 46 euros.  We checked out the local and stopped and had a quick drink and found out it wasn’t really open yet.  Then we decided to keep going south to check out another couple of beaches.  We drove what seemed miles and miles – but wasn’t and then came to a village called Lourdats and Lourdas Beach.  Another wonderful sprawling beach.   We decided an ale was in order so we headed off only to find nothing open until we drove past this white place which had its doors open and we looked in and the lady yelled out “we are not really open but come in and have a coffee on us” Cut a long story short they were a really nice English couple who had brought this place and were trying to open but there licence hadn’t come through yet so they couldn’t sell us anything.  It was a really cool place with a roof top area that had a 360áµ’ view over Lourdas Beach and the massive hills behind it, and a neat courtyard.  They were calling this place - Bar 360áµ’, so check it out if you are every in this area.  We headed back into Argrostoli, went out for another nice dinner and made some decisions about tomorrow.


Leaving Porus - Murray didn't want to miss out on a photo - nerd!
Porus marina/port
heading to the ferry


After much to-ing and fro-ing we decided to take the rental car back to Porus and catch the 2pm ferry and then bus to Athens where we would stay the night and then the following day train north to Thessalonka, then bus to Sofia in Bulgaria, then bus to Smoylan  and then on to our next stop in Smilyan.  Maybe we would have another chance to check out another island later in our trip when the weather was a little more settled.



Thanks for having us Kefalonia – we hope to come back one day.


Vassara, Peloponesse, Greece


Rome to Greece
Coming into Athens, we could see loads of snow on the mountain tops, lots of sparse rocky hills, and the huge big bay.  Quite close to the airport there was a huge quarry, looked like they had taken half the mountain away.  We got a transfer from airport to bus station where we caught the bus to the Peloponesse.  This journey took around 3.5 hours.  Athens harbour had heaps of ships anchored in it, and seemed to be a really busy port. The scenery was a bit bleak, it was cold and there was snow everywhere.  We thought we were heading to a warmer climate!  Huge rocky outcrops and olive trees was what it was all about.

Coming into Athens

Huge quarry

Snow capped hills in the Peloponesse 
We met Phil at the bus stop and after a short 15minute drive from Sellasia we reached the house in Vassara.  We met Shema, Annabel and Charley and two other English helpx’s Nick and Dee.  Not forgetting the two lovely dogs, a mum and son combo!  Everyone seemed really nice, but we kind of had discussed that a week here and we will have seen and done all we need too – how wrong were we!

The next day we mistakenly slept in, as we hadn’t changed our alarm clock, so it was a bit of a late start.  After breaky we went for a look around and helped tow the van out of a mud hole, and sorted out our project.   One of which Phil had many of.    They had a small block of land on the outskirts of the village which had a few olive trees, a small building which he was doing up and not much else.  The plan was for us to create a veggie garden area, a chook run and a dog run.  So, the planning began.  Orders were placed for the materials and within a couple of days we had started building fences.  All this time we were getting to know the family and Nick and Dee who were currently helping out on the renovation project on the house next door.  All of a sudden our week was up and we were in no hurry to move on.  We asked to stay another week, which in the end became two.


Starting from scratch


Nick, Murray and Phil inspecting the slide hammer
Working hard on the back garden fence

Out to dinner with the locals

Our days were filled fighting with rocks under the soil as we tried to ram angle iron as posts, it was so frustrating!   Murray made a slide hammer which was good but couldn’t get past those dam rocks. So everything seemed to take ages, and we felt like we were getting nowhere.  Luckily our nights were filled with good food, conversation and laughter, everyone got on so well – it was great. Every Saturday after work we were treated to a bbq and bonfire which was really relaxing.  And on Sundays Phil and Shema took us on outings to see sights in the Peloponesse and also out to their favourite Greek restaurants.


Monemvasia
The clan - Nick, Annabel, Dee, Shema, Delwyn and Murray


Rocky outcrop by the Church of Sophia

Looking towards the Mediterian Sea
The first trip was to Monemvasia.  This is a walled village on the rock of Monemvasia.  Cobbled streets and stoned houses galore.  We walked right up to the top of the fortress ruins to the Church of  Agia Sophia built sometime in the 16th century perched precariously on the side of a cliff.   The views were amazing from here you could see for miles, the water looked beautiful and the spring flowers in places were shoulder high.  After walking back down and across the bridge we sat and had lunch at the marina and had fried sardines and other seafood and drank Ozu on ice.  Yummy!   We returned to Sparta and walked around the ancient Sparta ruins and then met up with Phil, Shema and Annabel and had delicious Geros (wraps) for dinner before heading home.


A gorgeous wild flower!  not to mention the one taking it !  Murray told me to say that
The view from the top back towards the township
the winding pathway down


one of the streets in the village

Freedom riding - no helmets - it is against the law but very few use one.

Awesome place !

The marina where we had lunch


200 year old Olive tree at Ancient Sparta

We had another busy week fighting with stubborn rocks. Then we had Friday morning off so we caught the school bus at 7am to explore Sparta and then out to dinner with our new friends for our 27th wedding anniversary.  Un be known to us Dee and Annabel had baked and decorated a cake, Annabel made a beautiful card, Phil had brought some bubbles and we headed off to a small village about 30 minutes away to enjoy a village restaurant meal.  More delicious local Greek food was enjoyed with excellent company.  This was an anniversary to remember.

The Vassara village square

Downtown Sparta streets lined with orange trees

Sparta - snow capped mountains close by


Our Wedding anniversary cake

27 years......

Anniversary celebrations with our new friends
Another bbq and bonfire on Saturday night followed by a trip to the middle of the three southern fingers of the Peloponesse to a beach called Kardamyli. (I think)  The water was still a bit cold, and a little windy, but it was so good to be beside the sea again.  On the way back we drove through Gythio a fishing town with its waterfront areas on the harbours edge packed with cafes and tavernas. Beautiful.  We stopped and had some refreshments before heading to yet another great Greek restaurant for “pig on paper” for dinner.  Yum – great little restaurant great food and great service – the barmaid went out across the road to another tavern to get me a gin! -  Only wish I could remember its name to recommend to other travellers.  The pig on paper was exactly that, bbq pork belly cut into chunks, red onion rings, hot potato chips, blobs of mustard and lemon segments all this surrounded by sliced bread. We also had chicken and beef souvalki, hourta(special wild green weeds) and black eyed beans  and a mixed salad.  Delicious, can’t wait to get home and copy this.

Walking through the village on our way to work

Murray in his element

Gythio waterfront after a hard day sight seeing

Gythio wharf

Pigs on paper - yummy!

The three goofies sitting on the couch in the back of the mini bus

Vassara village

Vassara clock on the top of the hill behind village

A big bettle about 5 cm - Delwyn loved seeing this criter



The pressure was on during our last week to finish our project – our personal pressure that is, there was certainly not any pressure from Phil and Shema.  We worked really hard, but kept coming up against those bloody hard things below the surface and there was now lots of welding to be done, so I found other things to do, while I was waiting. I planted some fruit trees and made a fence around them and tidied up the cottage.   We worked right up to Saturday night, and were both gutted that we never finished. Three pens were made, and the gates were welded but not hung, so I guess wasn’t too bad.  There won’t be too much more for some else to finish off.


Wild flowers at Mystas




 






Just chilling out !








 We enjoyed a walk one day with Annabel through what she called the tortoise land – we thought she had made it up, but as she was telling us that there was actually tortoises living here, Murray spotted one just off the track – yep no camera with us of course.  The tortoise land was close to a river and was full of spring flowers, it was very pretty.  Shema used to take the dogs for walks down there.  Vassara itself was a neat place, with a mixture of old houses, ones partly renovated and ones completely renovated.  It was a very friendly village, and people got to know us strangers pretty quickly as each day we would walk through town on the way to work.   We were so lucky to have experienced this off the beaten track village life and have made life time friends during our time there.
Next stop was Zante Island and Kefalonia Island for a well earned break and a few days in the sun!
On our way we caught up with Pat whom we had met at Phil and Shema’s and meet his wife Heidi in Kyparissia to talk about our Bulgaria stopover.  We then continued on our way up the coast to Kylini  Where we would catch either the ferry to Zante then a few days later island hop to Kefalonia or vice versa.  On arriving in Kylini we were told the next ferry that night was to Kefalonia and the inter island ferries were not running yet, so we caught that ferry to Kefalonia.  Zante was the island that the movie Mumma Mia was filmed in, so we were a bit disappointed.

Happy times at Vassara - enjoying an ale or two